Madrid, September 19 and 20, 2026.
Madrid's operatic and symphonic scene is vibrant. While it may not be at the same level as its counterparts in London, Paris, New York, Vienna, or Berlin, we are often visited by several of the greatest artists. Last weekend, two eventsrepresentative of what I mentioned earlier, took place. Two living legends of orchestral conducting visited us these last two days: the Argentinian Daniel Barenboim and his West-Eastern Divan Orchestra performed at the Escena Escorial Festival, and the American Kent Nagano made his debut as principal conductor of the Spanish National Orchestra with Gustav Mahler's Second Symphony. Both acclaimed maestros have decades of experience working with the finest orchestras on the most prestigious stages, count with extensive discographies, and visited us on numerous occasions. Barenboim is one of the last great living conductors of the 20th century: his performance of music by Wagner, Beethoven, Bruckner, Mozart, and other German composers have resulted in acclaimed concerts and recordings. Nagano is a maestro with a very varied repertoire: one of the great champions of Olivier Messiaen's music, whose Saint François d'Assise he conducted in Salzburg, and a notable interpreter of Mahler, Wagner (he has conducted a Ring Cycle on period instruments in recent years), several French composers, among others.
The Escena Escorial Festival has become the successor to the Escorial International Festival, inaugurated in 2005, which, after a triumphant first edition, has consistently offered events of interest. Directed by Alondra de la Parra, principal conductor of the ORCAM (Orquesta de la Comunidad de Madrid), its inaugural season featured, among others, pianist Grigory Sokolov for its opening concert, and concludes with Barenboim and his Divan Orchestra. The Argentinian maestro is one of the most acclaimed conductors in the capital. His tours in Madrid with the Berlin State Opera, as part of the former summer festival at the Teatro Real, are still fondly remembered, featuring soloists, chorus, orchestra, and stage productions between 2000 and 2003, performing operas and concerts. In 2002, he conducted Tannhäuser and Elektra for us, and I, at the tender age of fourteen, attended both performances. Between 2004 and 2011, he switched from the Teatro Real (due to disagreements with the regional government, which refused to program Schoenberg's Moses und Aron that year, deeming it unsuitable for their summer festival because of its difficulty for the audience) to the Plaza Mayor, this time with his Divan Orchestra, conducting free concerts for thousands of people, performing works by Beethoven, Wagner, and Berlioz, among others. Since then, he has occasionally been seen conducting or playing piano at the Auditorio Nacional, but at the extremely expensive prices of Ibermúsica.
The West-Eastern Divan Orchestra, his Divan Orchestra, is his most cherished project. In 1999, Barenboim and the Palestinian writer Edward Said founded this orchestra to bring together Israeli and Palestinian musicians (and later Spanish and other Arab musicians) to foster dialogue for peace through music. The orchestra has become not only a symbol of peace but also a musical ensemble of the highest caliber. In 2026, with a genocidal war between Israel and Hamas ravaging Gaza, and with Israeli politicians boasting of their impunity, the idea behind this orchestra remains essential, especially in a present-day Spanish society more supportive than ever of the Palestinian cause, but also in which some anti-Semitic remarks disguised as legitimate criticism of Israel creep into some discourse.
The San Lorenzo del Escorial Auditorium Theatre (very close to the famous palace-monastery) was packed to capacity, with tickets sold out months in advance. Before the concert began, Ms. De la Parra gave a lengthy speech about Barenboim, the orchestra, and the Festival. The orchestra then entered to tune, and shortly afterward, to a resounding ovation, the maestro entered, visibly frail due to his health (he suffers from Parkinson's disease and left the Berlin State Opera in 2022 due to neurological problems). Indeed, the maestro's health cast a touch of sadness over the start of the concert: this once robust man, who used to travel the world performing one concert after another, sat slowly in the chair placed for him on the podium, barely moving his baton or left hand, and even glanced at the score somewhat disoriented at the beginning of the first piece. In fact, during the first piece, I got the impression that the orchestra, led by his son Michael Barenboim as first violin, was walking on its own when the maestro couldn't.
But any physical limitations were more than compensated for by the orchestra's exceptionally high level. Barenboim doesn't need to move much to continue leading an ensemble with which, due to the bond he shares, he complements it so completely until becoming a single, superb musical force. From the very first piece, Schubert's famous, unfinished Eighth Symphony, the spectacular sound of each section of the orchestra impressed the audience. The double basses began with a whisper-like beautiful pianissimo, to be soon answered by the rest of the orchestra. Then, the superb strings, the imposing horns, the flutes, clarinets, and oboes, and the spectacular percussion delivered an electrifying performance of the first movement. One was amazed by the ease with which the brass instruments sustained notes. When it concluded, the audience applauded spontaneously, which elicited a few nervous smiles from the musicians. The celestial and final second movement showcased the excellent woodwinds, and once again the orchestra responded with all its power. But the best was yet to come.
Next came a work Barenboim knows by heart and which is a touchstone of his repertoire: Tristan und Isolde by Richard Wagner. An opera he conducted in Bayreuth for 18 years and has recorded many times. The orchestra performed the Prelude and Liebestod (Death of Love). The latter was one of the highlights of the evening: after a spirited rendition of the prelude, the clarinet (replacing the voice) launched into an intimate and beautiful passage, followed by all the other, incredibly inspired instruments, with the strings displaying a spectacular tremolo in both pieces. And here, Barenboim didn't falter.
The second part was supposed to be Beethoven's Third Symphony. But a few days ago, at the maestro's request, it was changed to Robert Schumann's Third Symphony, the famous "Rhenish." And indeed, the spectacular symphony was well performed by the orchestra. In fact, hearing it live and so well performed seemed a far superior experience to when I've listened to it on a recording at home, where it didn't excite me as it did live. However, unfortunately for me, the fact that the event lasted longer than expected due to De la Parra's speech and the maestro's slow tempos forced me to leave after the second movement of this work, since the last bus from El Escorial to Madrid left at 10:00 p.m. sharp, and the difference between taking the last regular bus and the night bus is that with the latter I would have arrived home in the early hours of the morning. That's the bad thing about this theater: it's so far from Madrid by public transport that you feel like you're traveling to Bayreuth, feeling like it was a pilgrimage for the sake of the art, and if the performance ends after ten or eleven at night, the bus and the train don't wait.
Even so, it was well worth the trip to El Escorial to enjoy the artistry that one of the greatest conductors of the second half of the 20th century can still offer, although the visible limitations imposed by his health suggest that this could be the last time Barenboim conducts in Spain. I hope I'm wrong.
The following morning, the last of three concerts took place, a series that ran from Friday to Sunday, featuring American maestro Kent Nagano leading the Spanish National Orchestra and Choir. He performed Gustav Mahler's monumental Second Symphony, a favorite among Madrid audiences (I say this with authority: Alondra de la Parra performed it in El Escorial a few weeks ago, and the Spanish Television Orchestra will soon perform it at the Teatro Monumental). Mahler marked the end of last season and the end of David Afkham's twelve-year tenure at the helm of the institution, and now begins the era of Kent Nagano. Regardless of whether Nagano's performance is better or worse than Afkham's, having one of the world's most renowned conductors leading our National Orchestra is a major event. Nagano is not making his debut with the orchestra; he has conducted them on several occasions. Nor is he a stranger to Madrid: he has also visited the Auditorio Nacional with Ibermúsica.
Due to Mahler's popularity and the anticipation surrounding Nagano, the Auditorio was also packed. The concert, however, did not begin with the monumental work of the Austrian composer, but with a premiere: "Desire Took Delight," by Mikel Urquiza, a Spanish composer. The atonal work, with its use of percussion, sounds, and a choir that recited and sang phrases from Sappho's poems, was not entirely comprehensible to the audience. Even so, I don't want to criticize it: I recognize its merit, although perhaps due to my limited knowledge, I haven't been able to fully appreciate it.
Urquiza's final bar gave way to the opening of the strings, ushering in Mahler's monumental work. Death, spirituality, nature, the search for God, and regeneration after darkness, the emergence of life; these are recurring themes in Mahler's work and in this symphony. The composer creates a world of conflict, of highs and lows, culminating in the total fulfillment offered by resurrection in the apotheosis that concludes the work. The fourth and fifth movements include some of the most beautiful compositions ever created for lyric singing. The first of these, called "Urlicht" or "Primeval Light" in German, is a poem taken from Das Knaben Wunderhorn, a collection of songs Mahler borrowed from poems by Brentano and von Arnim. The contralto addresses the listener, almost whispering "oh, little red rose," beginning a beautiful song that speaks first of sorrow and then of the need to return to God. That return will unfold in the next movement, which sets to music the poem "Resurrection" by Gottlieb Klopstock, in which life triumphs over death and God waits with open arms.
An agile and powerful Nagano took the lead with the orchestra, delivering a performance characterized by its attention to detail, the seamless transition of sounds (achieving effective contrast as instruments moved from one tempo to another), and the alternation of time signatures. I reflected on how different this interpretation might be from Afkham's. This is a work that must be seen live to be fully appreciated. Nagano orchestrated the piece in such a way that each instrument could shine. The bassoon and trumpets, played offstage, had a magical effect. The choir was spectacular, from the very beginning of their entrance in the final movement, with a sacred music sound that created a unique atmosphere. The solo singers, however, were another matter entirely, both performing for the first time in Spain: the German mezzo-soprano Christina Bock and the Canadian soprano Jane Archibald. Bock's Urlicht was rather understated, more restrained than angelic, but she seemed to improve in her second appearance. Archibald has a pleasant, but equally discreet, voice, in a part that, on the other hand, doesn't allow her to stand out much either.
The evening ended with a resounding ovation for Nagano, the choir, and the orchestra, but the audience in the upper tiers added their own touch to the spectacle: during Urquiza's piece, a cell phone rang saying "no signal," which provoked some laughter. The woman sitting next to me and literally fell asleep, only to wake up and stare at her phone until the end of the concert. Something more serious also happened: a gentleman in the audience had a health problem and had to be helped out by several people to the ambulance waiting outside.
And so ends this intense weekend, in which two titans of music offered us some of the finest works of Central European music in two exceptional concerts. Although we are accustomed to grand musical events, we will always remember those two intense days.
My reviews are not professional and express only my opinions. As a non English native speaker I apologise for any mistake.
Stage photographs belong to the Teatro Real. My use of them is only cultural. If someone is uncomfortable with their use, just notify it to me.
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